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Eat Like A Local is a series by @HungryEditor profiling bodies on their bistro habits—everything from their admired restaurants and confined to breadth they grocery shop, and sometimes alike their go-to takeout order.
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Danica Lo in Hong Kong
Danica Lo is an columnist and the Chief Agreeable Officer at Tatler Asia. Lo ahead captivated chief positions at Aliment & Wine, WWD, Glamour, Epicurious, and Racked. Afore all of that she was a plus-size archetypal active with Wilhelmina. Lo was built-in in the U.K., grew up in New York, and went to Dartmouth for college. She alternate to the U.K. for alum academy and accustomed master’s degrees at both Oxford and Central Saint Martins. You can find her on Instagram: @DanicaLo.
Benjamin Liong Setiawan: What were some of the key accomplish that led you to breadth you are today?
Danica Lo: I started my career as a appearance bi-weekly announcer afore activity absolutely agenda a decade ago. Aback then, I’ve formed in appearance and aliment beat at above bunch media companies as able-bodied as baby Silicon Valley startups. Along the way, I appear a book with HarperCollins and was active to Wilhelmina Models’ plus-size division. Earlier this year, I confused to Hong Kong to accompany the Tatler Asia team—I’m aflame to absorb time actuality acquirements about the media industry and the Asia affluence market.
I’m a workaholic, so I feel actual advantageous that I adulation what I do. To be absolutely honest, my admired affair about my job as Chief Agreeable Officer at Tatler Asia is alive with the aggregation to ideate and actualize advantageous and absorbing agreeable to abruptness and contentment our readers—whether we’re analytic the complications of Patek Philippe’s latest release, touting the best chefs to apperceive and restaurants to try, or cogent adorning and able belief about the motivational armament abaft Asia’s best affecting leaders and amusing powerhouses.
If available, Danica Lo recommends the Okinawa corn, Kristal Schrenki caviar, seawater, and sudashi parfait at Amber at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong.
Setiawan: What are your admired restaurants in Hong Kong?
Lo: I’m new-ish to Hong Kong, so I still accept a lot of exploring to do. So far, I’ve admired and alternate to:
Already an iconic fine-dining destination aback 2005, Amber relaunched this bounce with a new modus operandi spearheaded by longtime Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus, who overhauled the restaurant’s signature dégustation airheaded with a lighter, revamped, refreshing, avant-garde approach—sans dairy and gluten. The hyper-seasonal offerings are consistently changing, but if you can bolt Ekkebus’ Okinawa corn, Kristal Schrenki caviar, seawater, and sudachi parfait, and the bloom of bead peas, pomelo, cuttlefish, and wakame. Book a table aboriginal and often. I’m actively because affective into the Mandarin Oriental aloof so I can alive afterpiece to Amber.
New Punjab Club
The aboriginal Punjabi restaurant in the apple to accept a Michelin ablaze is anchored in the affection of Hong Kong. Endemic and operated the Atramentous Sheep Restaurants group—which additionally owns hotspots including Ho Lee Fook, the Buenos Aires Polo Club, and the H.K. beginning of Carbone—the New Punjab Club is an artful, immersive, transporting, accurate acquaintance in the guise of a contemporary tandoor grillhouse. Accomplish abiding to adjustment the lamb, the samosa chaat, and the cobia. I’d pay about annihilation for a tray of the New Punjab Club’s anwar rathore mangoes—they’re distinctively able on a acreage in Pakistan that’s endemic by Atramentous Sheep Restaurants’ founder. And you charge end your meal with the restaurant’s signature adhesive toffee pudding. Assurance me.
Old Bailey is an airy, avant-garde restaurant advised by Herzog & de Meuron and tucked into a second-floor bend central the JC Contemporary arcade space, which is in about-face anchored in Tai Kwun, a above badge admixture in Central Hong Kong. I’m a huge fan of Old Bailey’s all-you-can-eat brunch, which appearance amaranthine house-made kombucha, xiaolongbao, Jiangnan dim sum and added dishes delivered anon to your table. The Bloody Marys are additionally excellent—along with the all-embracing cocktail affairs in general.
Yardbird is casual, crowded, loud, and doesn’t booty reservations—so access aboriginal to snag a table and bulk up on the absurd appetizers and average plates (I like the craven skewers, but the absolute ablaze of the appearance actuality are the starters). Yardbird card items I crave and conceiving about: seared yellowtail served with yuzu koshu, ponzu, and radish salad; candied blah tempura; the absurd craven with garlic kewpie mayo and lemon; and all the pickles—cucumber and ginger; kimchi, napa cabbage, and carrots; daikon and red shiso; and fennel with yuzu, which is simple, surprising, and perfect.
Hot Pot Hero
Hot pot is adequately accessible to appear by in Hong Kong, but if you’re attractive for article extra-special, Hot Pot Hero is in a alliance of its own. Go with a accumulation and adjustment the restaurant’s signature angle arch and blooming Sichuan peppercorn soup abject (trust me)—then go crazy on the a la carte meat, fish, dumplings, and vegetables menu.
If you’re traveling with kids, or are an adolescent developed (like me), Yum Cha is a can’t-miss cafeteria atom with locations in both Central and Tsim Sha Tsui that offers dozens of altered types of buns, dumplings, agreeable pastries, and added dim sum shaped like beautiful little googly-eyed animals. Yum Cha is the abode you’ve apparent all over amusing media breadth they serve those hot custard aflame buns that you blow your chopstick into and bear so they attending like they’re barfing. Do it for the ‘gram.
Danica Lo loves the antic dim sum at Yum Cha in Hong Kong.
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Setiawan: If addition was visiting your breadth and they capital to eat or alcohol like a local, which places would you recommend?
Lo: Appointment a acceptable Hong Kong cha chaan teng for breakfast: Jet lagged, awake, and foolishly athirst aboriginal in the morning? Appointment a Hong Kong-style diner—such as Australia Dairy Company—for aflame rice rolls, macaroni and Spam, and a freshly-baked pineapple bun adulate sandwich.
Ogle and buy an astronomic array of fruit: Overnight, the Yau Ma Tei Fruit Bazaar is a ample hub for the aliment and restaurant industry, but during the day, some shops abide accessible to the public. This is breadth you can see and buy some of the best, freshest fruits in town—my admired is the beefy and dank longan (dragon’s eye).
Don’t skip capital dining, because it’s super-legit in H.K.: Affluence malls are everywhere in Hong Kong, and some of the city’s best bounded restaurants and alternation concepts are anchored inside. Some of my favorites include: The Night Market, which serves a Taiwanese street-food-inspired card at Elements Capital (get the beef brainstorm soup and the baptize appearance sautéed with brewed bean curd) and John Anthony, which serves a academician contemporary aberration on Cantonese cooking, at Lee Garden (get the Australian Wagyu beef charsiu and the signature goose, which is dark-roasted in amethyst asset booze and served with pickled cucumbers).
Check out bounded restaurants in residential neighborhoods: Booty a mid-day cruise to Repulse Bay, one of the best big-ticket residential neighborhoods on Hong Kong Island, and analysis out the restaurant-packed beachside promenade. Limewood there is a abundant cafeteria spot—the card is arranged with beginning seafood offerings, so accomplish abiding to adjustment a bowl of calamari, but whatever you do, don’t absence the 48-hour broiled beef ribs, which are marinated in a mango-infused barbecue booze and topped with broiled sesame seeds and cilantro.
Early morning mountainside dim sum: Hiking is a actual big affair in Hong Kong—and afterwards a continued expedition up a abrupt abundance trail, what could be bigger than heaping servings of dim sum. Duen Kee Chinese Restaurant opens early, at 6 a.m., and stays accessible alone through mid-day—serving up acceptable baby plates to ammunition your climb.
Danica Lo suggests blockage out some of the residential neighborhoods on Hong Kong Island such as Repulse Bay. Limewood is on the beachside access and has hand-piped churros.
Setiawan: What are your admired restaurants about the globe?
Lo: This is an acutely difficult catechism to answer, but actuality are bristles restaurants I anticipate about activity aback to all the time:
Riddle & Finns
There’s boilerplate I’d rather be in the summertime than by the sea—and Brighton is one of my admired bank towns in the world, so I try to get there at atomic already a year. I try to accomplish my aboriginal meal in Brighton a hot kipper sandwich beneath the arches, beachfront. But my additional meal is usually a backward cafeteria at Riddle & Finns in The Lanes—the seafood is beginning and aged and the affable is aesthetic but unpretentious. I consistently adjustment way too much—get the razor clams if you’re advantageous and acquisition they’re on the menu, afresh a fruits de mer bowl of mollusk to breach into with your hands, and you’ll never go amiss with their affluent and agreeable angle soup.
Jia Jia Tang Bao 佳家汤包
90 Huanghe Rd., Huangpu Qu, Shanghai Shi, China, 86 21 6327 6878
My Shanghai jet lag morning ritual is: Wake up at 4 a.m. because I can’t beddy-bye anymore, cull on adaptable pants and delay until 6 a.m. aback Yang’s Absurd Dumplings opens, and annual some sheng jian bao (pan-fried bao) as a amateur there while I delay for Jia Jia Tang Bao to open, at 7 a.m., beyond the street. You’ll apperceive absolutely breadth it is because there’ll be a continued chain out the door. The card isn’t in English, so aloof adjustment a dié (steam basket) of aggregate that looks acceptable on addition else’s table—the ultra-thin and aerial xiaolongbao chef actuality is a textural amusement to eat, and the baking soup and meat-and-veg fillings are ambrosial and filling.
The Beatrice Inn
My admired restaurant in New York City for a year now has been The Beatrice Inn, breadth chef-owner Angie Mar rules the roost. The amplitude and vibe are archetypal downtown—in the best unpretentious, dgaf, gluttonous way possible—and Mar’s card is a carnivore’s manifesto. Get one of everything—especially don’t skip the blaze avoid or the porterhouse. Oh, and save allowance for dessert—the amazon is analgesic good.
Roast Avoid Flambé at Angie Mar’s The Beatrice Inn in New York is a charge says Danica Lo.
I went through a appearance aback I spent a lot of summers in amid 2003 and 2016 visiting Helsinki. My accompany there eventually became vegans and I gradually chock-full going—unclear if those two things are related, but anytime aback my aboriginal cruise to Finland, I’ve been bedeviled with Seahorse, an old-school acceptable Finnish restaurant that serves some of my admired meatballs, amber sauce, mashed potatoes, and beets in the world.
One of the bigger problems I accept aback visiting L.A. is that I like blockage in Malibu (at the Surfrider) or at Chateau (Marmont) in West Hollywood, but I adopt dining in other, far away neighborhoods—especially downtown, and abnormally at Majordomo, which I anticipate is Dave Chang’s best restaurant. The one tip I accept for anyone activity to Majordomo for the aboriginal time is to go with a accumulation of, like, six people, so you can adjustment added stuff. The aboriginal time I went, one acquaintance came with me, and we about died. Anyway, abutting time I go, I’m absolutely acclimation the brittle rice, the above accomplished chicken, the macaroni and chickpea, and a ample alternative from the bing menu. Again.
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Danica Lo is a fan of the Macaroni & Chickpea with Hozon and atramentous truffle at Majordomo by David Chang in Los Angeles.
Setiawan: Acquaint us about your job as the Chief Agreeable Officer at Tatler Asia.
Lo: As the Chief Agreeable Officer at Tatler Asia, I baby-sit beat beyond eight editions of Tatler: Hong Kong, China, Singapore, Taiwan, Malaysia, the Philippines, Indonesia, and Thailand.
Setiawan: What’s your eyes for Tatler Asia?
Lo: There’s so abundant absolute talent, passion, and articulacy about affluence lifestyle—fashion, beauty, wellness, travel, home, cars—as able-bodied as candor and appetite in innovation, technology, and anticipation administration actuality in Asia that I accept it’s a accustomed and analytic abutting footfall that we would be able to be allotment of a all-around archetype shift, breadth Tatler as a cast can advice flash a spotlight on Asia’s best influential—the amazing stories, the backbone of the community, and the annual that will appearance not alone Asia, but the world, in the abutting hundred, thousand years.
Setiawan: If you could accept a banquet affair with any accumulation of people, accomplished or present, who would your bristles guests be?
Lo: Ten years ago, Andy Wang and I started an breezy banquet affair alternation that we alleged Chinese Aliment Fight Club. The abstraction was that we’d get a big annular table at Legend, our admired adjacency Sichuan restaurant at the time, and Andy would allure bisected the guests—mostly from the affluence absolute acreage and aliment worlds—and I’d allure the added bisected of the guests—mostly from the appearance and affairs media space. Chinese Aliment Fight Club went on, irregularly, for about seven years. They were my admired banquet parties, ever, and what I abstruse from co-hosting them was that the aliment doesn’t accept to be adorned and the guests don’t accept to be famous—in fact, it’s bigger aback you allure brilliant, diverse, thoughtful, amusing bodies who aren’t abashed of bistro alien things. Actuality are some names I’d like to see sit about a table together:
Maria Yagoda, Aliment & Wine’s restaurant editor and, also, a above sex columnist at Vice: Maria was one of my aboriginal absolute hires aback I was at F&W and still one of my admired writers. She’s ablaze and funny and has a actual unpretentious, artlessly analytical way of attractive at the world. She’s additionally one of those bodies who is conspicuously likable—despite claiming to be an introvert, she’s abundant beneath all amusing affairs and knows how to apple-polish the best conversations out of anybody about her.
Andrew Doyle, comedian, political commentator, and the man abaft affected “woke” internet personality Titania McGrath: Andrew and I lived abutting aperture to anniversary added during alum school. He spent a lot of time at Oxford holed up in Duke Humphrey’s Library advice old Latin texts by duke (because you weren’t accustomed to accompany annihilation besides a pencil and a breadth of cardboard into Duke Humphrey’s). These days, he does aggregate I ambition I was acceptable at: He’s a standup comedian, a acknowledged playwright, a political analyst on annual television shows, and, aftermost year, he invented Titania McGrath, a faux-woke apology annual on Twitter that has accrued added than 300,000 followers…and a book deal.
Logan Paul, YouTube star: Logan Paul is the alone being on my banquet affair bedfellow account who I’ve never met—he’s young, brash, bold, outspoken, popular, and rich. He’s got a larger-than-life YouTube personality, and I doubtable he’s… a lot smarter than he lets on? Mostly I’m aloof analytical to accommodated him—and see how he is in absolute life, in chat with a assorted accumulation of minds from altered backgrounds than his accepted video crew.
Joe Brown, Editor-in-Chief of Accepted Science: Joe and I beyond paths briefly at Conde Nast—when he was at Wired and I was at Epicurious. We formed calm a little bit on some beyond corporate-wide agenda initiatives and I begin him to be one of the smartest, coolest editors I’ve anytime met—super-collaborative, abounding of abundant ideas—and I aloof selfishly appetite to adhere out with him, acquaint him to added bodies so I can blow that I apperceive the editor of PopSci, and ask him what amateur he’s arena on his iPhone and stuff.
Louise Wilson, who anesthetized away in in 2014, the above arch of the MA Appearance affairs at Central Saint Martins: Louise Wilson is and was one of the best affecting armament in the appearance industry—I would do annihilation to accept the advantage to be in her attendance again…and to accept to her allege her apperception and acquaint bodies off in alone the way Louise could.
Setiawan: If addition at that banquet affair asked the question—what is an breadth of brokenness you’d like to see addressed—what would your acknowledgment be?
Lo: I’ve been active away for about four months now, and I went aback to the U.S. for a few canicule to appointment in May. It feels like the absolute country is in a amazing bulk of pain.
Setiawan: What is one way (no amount how big or small) you anticipate that breadth can be adequate or fabricated accomplished again?
Lo: It’s activity to be a long, difficult action to acquisition healing in the United States, but I accept it will charge to alpha with convalescent apprenticeship from a adolescent age, beyond the board, and acceleration bottomward on community-centric ethics and account for others.
Setiawan: What has been alarming you recently?
Lo: Hong Kong is such an alarming city—and I adulation affair and alive with new bodies who appear from such assorted and all-embracing backgrounds. I grew up in New York and spent my absolute able activity there—it’s been such a about-face in worldview to booty myself absolutely out of the ambience of New York media.
Setiawan: Do you cook?
Lo: Yes! I adulation to cook. In amid appearance editor jobs, I was the Executive Editor at Epicurious and, added recently, the Agenda Director at Aliment & Wine. I adulation affable for myself and I adulation affable for others—I adulation the ritual of a well-loved recipe, and I additionally adulation administration commons with friends.
Setiawan: What’s your signature dish?
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Lo: I don’t apperceive if I accept a signature dish, but I accept an absolute repertoire of one-pot recipes I’ve abstruse by heart: an accessible weeknight coq au vin; amaranthine variations on risotto; stews and soups; annihilation in a Dutch oven.
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